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Kubota B2320 Tractor Specs
Classification - Compact Utility tractor
Kubota B2320 Engine Specifications
Engine Make - Kubota
Engine Model - D1005
Number of Cylinders - 3
Advertised Engine Power, Rated, hp (kW) - 23.0 (17.2)
Maximum Engine Power, hp (kW) - Same as Advertised
Rated Engine Speed, rpm - 2800
Power Boost, hp (kW) - No boost
Fuel Tank capacity, gal (L) - 6.6 (25)
Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) tank capacity, gal (L) - No DEF
Displacement, cu in (L) - 61.1 (1.001)
Engine Bore, in (mm) - 2.99 (76.0)
Engine Stroke, in (mm) - 2.90 (73.6)
Block Design, Replaceable Liners - Parent bore block
Aspiration, Turbocharged or Naturally Aspirated - Natural
Fuel System Description - In-Line Pump System
Fuel System Control, Electronic or Mechanical - Mechanical
Fuel Injection to combustion chamber - Indirect
Emission Level, US EPA Tier - Tier 4 Interim
Exhaust Pipe, Vertical stack or Horizontal - Horizontal
Cooling System Fan Drive Type - Belt
Electrical System Rating, Volts - 12
Alternator Rating, Amps - 40
Basic Transmission Configuration
Manufacturer's Description - Gear Drive
Transmission Type - Gear
Number of Forward / Reverse Speeds - 9F / 3R
Maximum Speed Forward, mph (kph) - 11.2 (18.0)
Creeper Range Available - No
Shuttle (Forward-Reverse) Available - No
Kubota B2320HSD Optional Transmission 1
Manufacturer's Description - Hydrostatic
Transmission Type - Gear
Number of Forward / Reverse Speeds - Infinite / 3 Ranges
Kubota B-2320 Tractor PTO
PTO Horsepower, Basic / Optional Transmission, hp (kW) - 18.0 (13.4) /
17.0 (12.7)
Power Take Off Speeds, rpm - 540 / 960
PTO operational Type (Independent; Live; Continuous) - Independent
Wheels Configuration
Drive Wheels - 4WD
Steering Configuration - Front Steer
Rear Axle Assembly
Final Drive Location and Description - Spur gear
Axle Output End, Flange or Bar - Flange
Axle Bar Diameter, in (mm) - No bar axle
Front Axle
Suspended Front Axle Available - No
Brakes
Service Brake Type - Wet disc
Kubota B2320 Hydraulic System
Hydraulic System Type - Open Center
Main Hydraulic Pump Type - Gear
Standard Pump Flow, gpm (Lpm) - 8.3 (31.4)
Optional Pump Flow, gpm (Lpm) - No option
Number of Standard Remote Valves - 1
Kubota B-2320 Tractor3-Point Hitch Features
3-Point Hitch Category - Category 1
Optional Hitch Category - No option
Draft Sensing or Lift Control - Upper link mechanical
Draft Link Ends Adjustable - Yes
3-Point Hitch Lift Capacity
Standard Lift Capacity 24 Inches behind pin, lb (kg) - 1,058 (480)
Optional Lift Capacity 24 Inches behind pin, lb (kg) - No Option
Standard Lift Capacity at lift pin, lb (kg) - 1,356 (615)
Optional Lift Capacity at lift pin, lb (kg) - No Option
Drawbar
Drawbar Description - Adjustable
Wheelbase
Wheelbase, MFD/4WD, in (mm) - 61.5 (1563)
Kubota B2320HSD Dimensions
Length, MFD/4WD, incl. Hitch/Drawbar, in (mm) - 93.9 (2385)
Overall Width, with standard wheels or tracks, in(Mm) - 45.1 (1145)
Weight (w/Tires)
Weight, MFD/4WD w/ROPS, lb (kg) - 1,433 (650)
Tire Size
Front Tire Size Width, MFD/4WD - 6.0-12
Rear Tire Size Width - 9.5-16
I am looking for a little guidance on a problem with my Kubota B2320.
The tractor is a 2010 model with only 79 hours. It has never been abused
in any way, has always been stored indoors, and still appears absolutely
new. After mowing yesterday the tractor was shut down as normal. A
couple hours later when I attempted to start it, it would not crank.
When the key is turned to the run position, the lights and dash all come
on as usual but when the key is turned a little further to the start
position the starter simply doesn't turn. It makes no noise or clicks,
it is just silent. The first thing I checked was the PTO lever but no
problem there. When engaging and disengaging the PTO you can hear a
"click" as if a relay is functioning so I have ruled that out. I checked
all of the seat switches with a test light and still found no problems.
I also checked the fuses, again no problems. I was able to start the
tractor by jumping the starter so the starter is also fine. I found a
small box underneath the dash that appears to be some type of "brain"
that has several wires coming in and out. I took the cover off and there
is a circuit board that appears to be fine, no burnt or dark areas. I
removed the key switch and tested all of the workings and the wire that
triggers the starter does produce power when the key is turned. I cannot
find a single thing wrong with this tractor and just don't know where to
look next.
Just had this happen on my 2620, there is a small "module" behind the
dash that all the safety switches attach to. All the switches were good
on mine along s with the wiring but no power to starter. Part wasn't in
stock so it's bypassed on mine right now; part is about 150, sounds like
you have a similar problem. Module part is 6c190-55513, also appears to
control the charging and fuel solenoid, however I lost the starter first
then the fuel solenoid stopped working while I was checking circuits.
I've had my MMM in the transport position for the last few weeks. No
problem getting it raised so I could put the pins in. Cutting height
adjustment knob is in max height for this. I removed the pins to lower
it prior to removal and couldn't get the blasted thing to go down. And I
can't get the cutting height adjustment knob to turn at all. The whole
works just seems frozen. I bumped the RPM up to around 2K thinking that
might help, no luck. I'm still new at R&R'ing the attachments so
probably am overlooking something. R&R'ing the FEL, thankfully, has been
smooth as can be, but this dang MMM has me fooled.
I've not had the pleasure of working w/one of these new B series yet
but, since the MMM and associated assembly is very similar to the BX
series I have a few suggestions you can try. Those depth setting
adjusters can get frozen when not used much and at other times the MMM
can settle on the adjusters step and won't allow to turn.
1st thing to try is to raise the 3ph to the max position and while
holding it there try to turn the knob. I have to so this w/my BX a few
times after I've locked it the Top position for extended times. If the
knob doesn't turn you may need to give it a good shower of PB Blaster or
similar. Spray both down from the top and up from the bottom, giving
everything associated w/that knob and assembly a good shower then try
step one again. Once the MMM is lowered you'll want to continue to spray
and turn that knob until it moves somewhat easily.
It’s Problem with my Kubota B2320 HSD. I'll be running fine and then all
of the sudden, it will start to lose RPMs and almost die. If I back off
the throttle and give it a second, it will usually recover. If it dies
completely, I sometimes take a couple of tries to restart it. When it
does restart, it kind of chokes a little bit until it gets going. When
this happens, I usually notice all of the fuel getting sucked up out of
the filter bowl. I've recently changed the air and fuel filters, even
though the new air filter seems a little dirty already, but I went three
years on the factory filter. I replaced all parts with Kubota filters
from Messicks. Do I have something in my fuel tank that is clogging the
flow? Or do I have other issues? Most days it runs fine all day long.
But every once in a while, it acts up like this. It's just concerning me
that this is the harbinger of bad things to come unless it is resolved.
Does anybody have the procedure for removing the fuel tank for cleaning
since it is impossible to get a good look into it through the filler
opening?
Well, that doesn't seem to be it. Spent some time last night cutting and
still experienced random stalls. It seems to happen randomly. When it
does, the fuel filter bowl level starts to drop below the actual filter.
If I drop the rpms and wait for the bowl to refill, then it seems to
continue to run. If I shut it off and wait, I have difficulty starting,
but then it seems to run fine. Finished up after about 4 stalls without
a problem. I don't know, I must have something restricting fuel flow
from the tank. May be some sediment in the tank or a clogged line. But
you would think, once it is stationary, the sediment would not just
suddenly unblock the pickup in the tank.
First tractor, got a LandPride RTR1050 with a Kubota 2320. What position
does the lowering 3-point hitch shifter need to be in when tilling? In
the middle neutral position or in the lower position? There is a locking
position for lower and raise. So when having the lever in the down
position, no downward pressure is being applied, it’s just opening the
valve to let it fall? I adjust the tilling depth by the skids on its
sides.
Yes, to both. Gravity does the work. And what said about the clutch.
They need to be set for the specific tractor and tiller combo, to
protect your driveline. Easy to do. I'm assuming this is your first
power implement, so I'll describe how. BTW, I also have that tiller, and
LOVE it. The clutch generally fits on the implement end of the
driveshaft, and consists of the splined driving end, which has a U-joint
and is either part of, or fastens to, the driveshaft. The second part is
the clutch disc/ driven end, which has a friction liner on both sides of
a plate, and a splined fitting which fastens to the input shaft of the
implement. Then there is the clutch plate and tension springs and bolts
(usually 8 of them). The clutch disc fits between the driving end and
the clutch plate. The bolts connect the plate to the driving end and the
springs put pressure on the disc. These bolts need to be adjusted so
they will allow the disc to slip if sufficient load is placed on the
driveshaft. "Sufficient" is a relative term. You don't want the clutch
to slip under normal use, but if you hit a big rock, or root, or
something gets jammed or wedged between the tiller tines and tiller
housing, you want the clutch to slip so it doesn't rip all the teeth off
your PTO gears. Loosen all the bolts until spring tension is released
from the disc (you should be able to slip the clutch by hand by turning
the driveshaft manually, disconnected from the tractor). Now, snug the
bolts evenly, starting with a half turn each, until the clutch is just
too difficult to turn by hand. Now reattach the driveshaft to the PTO
output and get out in the garden in some clean, (no rocks/roots)
untilled dirt. Start up, engage the tiller, and lower it to the ground;
you should see it stop as soon as it hits ground, but the driveshaft is
still turning. Immediately raise the tiller, and shut the PTO off, and
turn off the engine for safety. Equally tighten the tension bolts a half
turn and repeat starting up, engaging the tiller, and lowering it into
the dirt. If the tiller continues to spin, try moving forward and see
how well it tears up the ground without slipping. If it works well
without slipping, you should be set pretty well. Try in harder ground to
see if it slips then. You want the clutch set just tight enough to turn
your "regular" ground without slipping. Keep the clutch clean; don't
allow grease or oil between the pressure plate or disc surfaces. If you
let the tiller sit in the weather, or for an extended period of time,
you'll want to loosen up the assembly, clean the friction surfaces, and
reset the tension.
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